Wool

What is Wool, Anyway?

Imagine a soft, cuddly cloud that can be worn on your back. That’s wool! It’s not just any fabric; it’s a marvel of nature, produced by sheep and other mammals through tiny follicles in their skin. These follicles can produce primary or secondary fibers, each with its own unique characteristics.

The Magic of Wool

Wool is more than just a textile; it’s a wonder of nature. One of the most fascinating features of wool is crimp. Think about it—each fiber has a natural wave, making it easier to spin into fleece. This crimp also gives wool its elasticity and makes it so versatile for different uses.

But that’s not all! Wool holds air and retains heat due to its bulk and high thermal resistance. It’s like having a warm hug wrapped around you on chilly days. And when you want to make something, wool fibers can bind into yarn through felting—either dry or wet methods. This process is magical in itself!

Distinguishing Features of Wool

Wool stands out from hair or fur because it’s crimped and elastic. It also has the unique ability to bind into yarn, making it perfect for knitting and weaving. Unlike some other fibers, wool can absorb moisture but isn’t hollow. It can hold up to one-third of its own weight in water, which is pretty impressive! And while it’s generally a creamy white color, some breeds produce natural colors that are simply stunning.

When you burn wool, it ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and synthetic fibers, producing a self-extinguishing char. This makes wool carpets ideal for high safety environments where fire resistance is crucial. But be warned—some people might experience an allergic reaction to wool, so always check if you’re sensitive before diving into a woolen project.

Sheep Shearing and Wool Classification

The process of sheep shearing is like giving your furry friend a haircut. After the fleece is cut off, it’s sorted into four main categories: fleece, broken, bellies, and locks. Raw wool contains valuable lanolin, pesticides, and vegetable matter that must be removed through scouring processes before commercial use.

The quality of wool depends on its fiber diameter (the single most important characteristic), crimp, yield, color, and staple strength. Merino wool is typically 90-115 mm in length and very fine (12-24 microns). It’s highly valued for its softness and durability. Damage or breaks can occur if a sheep is stressed while growing its fleece, resulting in thin spots where the fleece may break.

Wool is classified according to average diameter, yield, staple length, staple strength, and sometimes color and comfort factor. Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization or hand removal. The finest Australian and New Zealand Merino wools are classified as 1PP, representing excellence in fineness, character, color, and style.

A Brief History of Wool

Domestication of sheep for wool began around 9,000-11,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence shows that selection for woolly sheep started around 6,000 BC, with the earliest known woven wool garments dating back to 2,000-3,000 years later. The wool trade developed in medieval times and became a generator of capital, driving economic growth in Italy and other regions by the 14th century.

By the 16th century, Italian wool exports declined as silk production increased. English raw wool exports rivaled Spanish sheepwalks in the 15th century and were a significant source of income for the English crown. The Cistercian houses established economies of scale by shipping baled wool to textile cities like Flanders, where it was dyed and worked up into cloth.

The English textile trade grew during the 15th century, leading to laws controlling the wool trade or requiring its use in burials. Fine English woolens began competing with silks after Restoration in 1660. The “putting-out” system effectively bypassed guild restrictions, and the Medici built wealth on their textile industry based on wool.

Castile’s sheepwalks controlled the Spanish wool-market until late when it was overtaken by Britain and Australia. Wool production declined due to decreased demand for wool with synthetic fibers. Superwash wool technology emerged in the 1970s, making wool machine washable. This process results in a fiber that holds longevity and durability better than synthetic materials, while retaining garment shape.

Modern Uses of Wool

A new wool suit developed in Japan can be washed in the shower and dries quickly without ironing. The General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fibres to raise awareness about wool and other natural fibers.

Global wool production is around 2 million tonnes per year, with 60% going into apparel. Australia is a leading producer, but China has surpassed it in terms of total weight. New Zealand is the third-largest producer, mainly producing crossbred wool.

Organic wool has gained popularity, primarily from New Zealand and Australia. Wool is environmentally preferable to synthetic materials, especially when combined with natural binding and formaldehyde-free glues. However, animal rights groups have raised concerns about mulesing in wool production.

The Future of Wool

About 85% of wool sold in Australia is sold through open cry auctions. The British Wool Marketing Board operates a central marketing system for UK fleece wool. Less than half of New Zealand’s wool is sold at auction, while around 45% is sold directly to private buyers and end-users.

In the US, sheep producers market wool with private or cooperative wool warehouses, with some wool being pooled in local markets but sold through wool warehouses. Shoddy or recycled wool is made by cutting apart existing fabric and respinning the fibers, which reduces fiber length and makes the fabric inferior.

Worsted is a strong, long-staple yarn, while woolen is soft and short-staple. Wool has been used for clothing, blankets, suits, horse rugs, carpeting, insulation, upholstery, and art forms like wet and needle felting. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt.

Wool can also be used as a soil fertilizer and as a material in modern cloth diapers, underwear, and body armor. The Ermenegildo Zegna Perpetual Trophy is awarded to Australian wool producers, while the Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy for Extrafine Wool Production was launched in 1980.

In 2004, the Ermenegildo Zegna Unprotected Wool Trophy was launched for fleece from sheep coated for less than nine months of the year. In 1998, an Ermenegildo Zegna Protected Wool Trophy was introduced for fleece from sheep coated for around nine months of the year. The Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum Trophy was launched in 2002 for wool that is 13.9 microns or finer.

New Zealand won the first Vellus Aureum Trophy in 2008 with a fleece measuring 10.8 microns. Since 2000, Loro Piana has awarded a cup for the world’s finest bale of wool. The Australian and New Zealand Wool Growers Association hosts various events, including the New England Merino Field days, Annual Wool Fashion Awards, New England Wool Expo, and Australian Sheep and Wool Show.

The largest competition in the world for objectively measured fleeces is the Australian Fleece Competition, which was held annually at Bendigo. The event attracted 475 entries from all states of Australia in 2008.

Conclusion

Wool is more than just a fabric; it’s a journey through history and nature. From ancient times to modern innovations, wool continues to captivate us with its unique properties and versatility. Whether you’re knitting a cozy sweater or admiring the craftsmanship of a fine suit, wool remains a timeless choice that connects us to our past while embracing the future.