Perry

Perry: The Forgotten Pear Cider

Have you ever wondered about the mysterious drink that’s not quite cider but definitely more than just pear juice? Welcome to the world of perry, a traditional beverage with a rich history and unique characteristics. Perry is an alcoholic drink made from fermented pears, traditionally produced in England, France, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and now even in the United States’ northwest regions.

The Pear Behind the Drink

When we think of pears, we often imagine juicy, sweet fruits perfect for eating fresh. But not all pears are created equal—some are bitter and small, making them ideal for fermenting into a delightful drink. These special pears come from various regions, with traditional varieties hailing from Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, and Worcestershire in the UK.

Production Process: A Blend of Juices

The production process of perry is quite unique. It involves a blend of juices, high tannin content, and specific enzyme addition to improve pressing. This results in a beverage with a distinct aroma and taste profile that sets it apart from cider made from apples. The sweeter and softer mouthfeel of perry can be attributed to the sorbitol content found in pear juice.

Challenges in Orchard Management

Managing an orchard for perry production is no easy feat. These trees grow slowly, bear less fruit when fully grown, and are susceptible to diseases like fire blight. To tackle these challenges, a national collection of perry pear cultivars has been established at the National Perry Pear Centre in Hartpury.

Harvesting and Growing Processes

Perry trees take longer to mature than cider trees, and when fully grown, they bear less fruit. When it’s time to harvest, pears should be picked before ripeness and then left to ripen indoors, while apples are allowed to ripen on the tree. This unique process adds another layer of complexity to the production of this traditional drink.

Techniques and Ingredients

The technique for making perry is similar to that of traditional cider but requires additional steps. For instance, leaving the fruit to mature after picking and allowing the pomace (the residue left after pressing) to lose tannins are crucial processes. The main sugars in perry pears include glucose, xylose, and galacturonic acid, while pear juice contains significant quantities of unfermentable sugar alcohols like sorbitol.

A Historical Beverage

The earliest known reference to fermented alcoholic drinks made from pears is found in Pliny. Perry-making became well-established in France after the Roman Empire’s collapse and then spread to England’s west, where the climate was suitable for pear cultivation. In the 18th century, perry reached popularity due to difficulties with wine imports.

Modern Revival

Traditional perry production declined in the 20th century due to changing farming practices and tastes. However, modern commercial techniques have revived the industry, producing branded perrys like Babycham. Commercial perry is standardized, sweeter, and lower strength than traditional perry, often containing cereal adjuncts and artificial carbonation.

Popularity and Rediscovery

The decline of traditional perry production continued with many orchards lost to fire blight and changing agricultural practices. However, in recent years, perry has gained popularity, with around 2.5 million British consumers purchasing it in one year. Various organizations have been searching for old perry pear trees and orchards, rediscovering lost varieties such as ‘Burgundy’ and the ‘Potato Pear.’

Alternative Names and Naming Controversies

Pear cider has been used as an alternative name for alcoholic drinks containing pear juice in preference to the term perry. The term was coined in 1995 after Brothers Cider found that customers at Glastonbury Festival didn’t understand what perry was.

Conclusion

In the UK, there is a naming controversy over pear cider and perry. CAMRA defines perry as made from perry pears only by traditional methods, while the National Association of Cider Makers states that the terms are interchangeable and can contain up to 25% apple juice.