Santa María de Óvila

Discovering the Lost Monastery of Santa María de Óvila

Imagine a grand monastery, built in 1181, standing proudly on the banks of the Tagus River near Trillo, Guadalajara. This was once the heart of Cistercian life, but its story is one of both glory and loss.

The Rise and Fall

Founded in 1175 by King Alfonso VIII of Castile for the Cistercian monks of Valbuena Abbey, Santa María de Óvila was a beacon of religious and architectural splendor. Over three decades, it grew from humble beginnings to a magnificent complex that showcased every Spanish religious architectural style used between 1200 and 1600. But like many grand structures, its decline began in the 15th century due to civil wars and depopulation.

American Interlude

Fast forward to 1931, when American publisher William Randolph Hearst bought parts of the monastery with plans to use its stones for a castle at Wyntoon, California. But this grand vision was short-lived; after removing over 10,000 stones, Hearst abandoned the project. Today, these stones are scattered across California, from the University of San Francisco to Golden Gate Park’s botanical garden.

Preservation and Reuse

The Spanish government declared Santa María de Óvila a National Monument in June 1931, but by then, much damage had already been done. Arthur Byne, an art agent working for Hearst, documented the monastery’s history and layout before dismantling it stone by stone. By July 1, 1931, all 10,000 stones were shipped to California.

While some stones found their way into museums and parks, others remained in storage or were used for various projects. The Abbot-Emeritus of the Abbey of New Clairvaux first saw the stones in 1955 and revisited them over the years, finding them in worsening condition. Architectural historian Margaret Burke began working on inventorying these remaining stones in 1981.

Restoration Efforts

In 2003, ground was broken for a project that would see the reassembled chapter house of Santa María de Óvila as the largest example of original Cistercian Gothic architecture in the Western Hemisphere. Sierra Nevada Brewing Company partnered with New Clairvaux to make a series of Belgian-style beers under the Ovila Abbey brand, dedicating a percentage of beer sales to assist in funding the rebuilding project.

The reassembled chapter house is now open to the public and stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of this once-great monastery. It serves not only as a reminder of its past but also as a symbol of hope for its future, much like the stones that were scattered yet found their way back home.

From its founding in 1175 to its dismantling and eventual restoration, the story of Santa María de Óvila is a tale of preservation, loss, and rebirth. It serves as a reminder that even when faced with challenges, there is always hope for renewal.