George Herbert Leigh Mallory was an English mountaineer. He took part in the first three British expeditions to Mount Everest, in the early 1920s. During the 1924 expedition, Mallory and his climbing partner, Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine, disappeared on the northeast ridge of Everest. His ultimate fate was unknown for 75 years, until his body was discovered on 1 May 1999.
About George Mallory in brief
George Herbert Leigh Mallory was an English mountaineer. He took part in the first three British expeditions to Mount Everest, in the early 1920s. Mallory served in the British Army during the First World War and fought at the Somme. After the war, he taught at Charterhouse School whilst honing his skills as a climber in the Alps and the English Lake District. During the 1924 expedition, Mallory and his climbing partner, Andrew ‘Sandy’ Irvine, disappeared on the northeast ridge of Everest. His ultimate fate was unknown for 75 years, until his body was discovered on 1 May 1999 by an expedition that had set out to search for the climbers’ remains. Whether Mallory or Irvine reached the summit before they died remains a subject of speculation and continuing research. He was married to Ruth Turner and had two daughters and a younger brother, Trafford Leigh-Mallory, the World War II Royal Air Force commander. He is buried at St Paul’s Cathedral, London, with his wife, Ruth Turner, and their two daughters, Frances Clare ‘Berry’ and John ‘John’ ‘Ruth’. He died in a hotel room in the town of Chorley, Cheshire, in 1998, aged 87. He leaves behind a wife and a son, John “John” Mallory, and a daughter, Francesclare ‘Frances Clare’ Mallory.
He also leaves a wife, Susan ‘Susan’, and two children, FrancesClare “Berry” “Ruth,” and James ‘James’ “Rudy” ”“James”, who were all born in the 1880s and 1890s, and his son, Trafford “ Trafford ‘ Trafford’ Leigh , who was born in 1914. He left school at the age of 13 and went on to study at Magdalene College, Cambridge. He became friends with future members of the Bloomsbury Group, including Rupert Brooke, John Maynard Keynes, James Strachey, Lytton StracheY, and Duncan Grant, who took some portraits of him. In 1910, he climbed Mont Blanc and made the third ascent of Mont Vélan. In 1923, he took a job as a lecturer with the Cambridge University Extramural Studies Department. In 1925, he was given temporary leave so that he could join the 1924 Everest attempt. In 1926, he attempted to climb Mont Blanc, but turned back before the summit due to altitude sickness. In 1927, he made the first ascent of the Mont Blanc Frontier. In 1928, he led a party that reached a record altitude of 26,980 ft without supplemental oxygen. In 1929, he became the first British climber to reach the summit of the world’s highest mountain. In 1930, he went on a second expedition to the South Pole, where he reached an altitude of 20,000 feet.