Fanny Bullock Workman

Fanny Bullock Workman: A Pioneering American Mountaineer

Imagine a time when women were expected to stay within the confines of their homes, but one woman defied all odds and became a trailblazer in mountaineering. Fanny Bullock Workman (1859-1925) was not just any ordinary woman; she was an American geographer, cartographer, explorer, travel writer, and mountaineer who broke gender barriers in the early 20th century.

Wasn’t it remarkable that Fanny, born to a wealthy family, chose to travel extensively with her husband William Hunter Workman? Together, they cycled through Europe, North Africa, and Asia, setting several women’s altitude records and publishing eight travel books. But what drove this ‘New Woman’ to pursue such an adventurous life?

Education and Early Adventures

Fanny was educated in Europe and became fluent in German and French. She saw herself as a ‘New Woman,’ someone who could equal any man. The couple cycled through Europe, North Africa, and Asia, writing about their experiences and commenting on the lives of women they met. Their travels were not just for fun; Fanny gave lectures about her adventures, becoming the first American woman to lecture at the Sorbonne and the second to speak at the Royal Geographical Society.

Mountaineering Adventures

The Workmans explored the Himalayas and Karakoram regions, reaching high altitudes without modern equipment. They organized multiyear expeditions but struggled to work with local laborers due to a lack of understanding about native workers’ positions. Fanny focused on the beauty and romance of Algerian countryside but also highlighted the abuse and neglect of women in Algerian society.

Between 1888 and 1893, they took bicycling tours of Switzerland, France, Italy, Algeria, Indochina, and India. In 1891, Fanny became one of the first women to climb Mont Blanc. Their first extended tour was a 2,800-mile bicycle trip across Spain in 1895.

Challenges and Achievements

The Workmans faced numerous challenges during their expeditions, including bureaucratic difficulties, weather problems, and labor issues. They hired 45 porters but costs skyrocketed as news of wealthy Americans circulated in the villages. The porters rebelled when they reached snow, refusing to work in cold conditions.

Despite these obstacles, Fanny’s fingers were numb during the summit push of a wall that measured 1,200 feet, forcing one of the porters to abandon them. Pauly writes about Fanny’s climbing style, describing her as ‘slow, relentless, and intrepid.’ Climbing at the beginning of the 20th century, she did not have specialized equipment like pitons or carabiners.

After their first trip to the Himalaya, they became entranced with climbing and mountaineering. Fanny published accounts of her feats, including an article in the Scottish Geographical Magazine. However, scholarly critics pointed out her lack of scientific knowledge. Popular reviewers enjoyed her book, concluding that Dr. and Mrs. Workman had written one of the most remarkable books of travel of recent years.

Legacy and Recognition

In 1902, they explored the Chogo Lungma Glacier, starting in Arandu. In 1903, they trekked to the Hoh Lumba Glacier with guide Cyprien Savoye and attempted to climb Pyramid Peak (later renamed Spantik). Fanny set a new altitude record on their expedition.

After returning from their travels, the Workmans lectured all over Europe. At one talk in Lyon, France, 1000 people crowded into the auditorium and 700 were turned away. In 1905, Fanny became the second woman to address the Royal Geographical Society. The couple spent a night at an altitude of 20,278 feet (6,181 m) on top of Z1 on Nun Kun, making it their highest point.

Fanny Workman climbed Pinnacle Peak, reaching an altitude of 22,735 feet (6,930 meters), setting a record for women that stood until 1934. She also measured the elevation of the mountain to confirm her record and paid French surveyors $13,000 to do so.

After World War I, they stopped exploring and focused on writing and lecturing. Workman became a lecturer at the Sorbonne in Paris and was one of the first women admitted to the Royal Geographical Society. She received medals from various European geographical societies and was elected as a member of several clubs.

Fanny Bullock Workman’s legacy is one of determination, adventure, and breaking gender barriers. Her travels challenged traditional norms of Victorian female propriety and showed that women could thrive outside the home through their achievements in mountaineering and exploration.

Fanny Bullock Workman was a trailblazer who paved the way for future generations of women in mountaineering and exploration. Her legacy continues to inspire us today, reminding us that with determination and courage, we can achieve anything we set our minds to.